Surfer Stories

Here is a story we got from reader Janice Donaldson. She wrote in to tell us about two unique experiences she’s had with local surfers:

There have been two occasions where I’ve asked a surfer to surf out into the water for me. Both occasions have been spontaneous; I didn’t know either of these guys. The first time was in 1997 when I felt the need to observe the death of my nephew, Chad, a real outdoorsman who had died tragically. I bought some daisies and went to La Jolla Shores. I didn’t plan anything or expecting anything really. I just knew that somehow I wanted to have them placed on the water in honor of the passing of my nephew, whose funeral I had just attended on the east coast. I was sure that something good would happen. I stood at the water’s edge and there was a surfer, about to go into the water. I asked him if he would take the daisies out for me and simply place them on the water. I briefly explained they were to observe the death of my nephew. My plan was to watch him do this, and pray to Chad. I found someone very special. He was Asian and replied, “It would be an honor.” He paddled out with one hand and the daisies didn’t touch the water. When he was some distance out, he raised the daisies aloft, folded his fingers in a fist and then held his arm over his head. With his other hand, he gently placed the daisies on the water. Naturally, I just about fell apart.

Yesterday, this ceremony was done again. Once again, I didn’t know the surfer; didn’t have any great plan. My husband and I had been given a rock for a wedding present, a simple, sweet gift from a close friend. On the rock was elaborately painted our names and our wedding date. Sadly, our marriage ended in divorce and I wanted to observe the ending of this marriage. I must have looked pretty silly, walking barefoot along the beach in a blazer, with a rock drooping down in my pocket. But I was sure things would all work out, again. I walked a good distance and saw “Arien” just sitting there with his surfboard. I asked him if he was going out surfing again soon. He answered, “In about half an hour.” I asked him if, next time he went out, he would take the rock with him and throw it into the water for me. I wryly observed that he could probably make a living off of people like me, who need to observe the ending of things this way. I wanted to give him some money or something, but because I didn’t have any cash on me I dumbly said I’d give him my e-mail. So awkward and unnecessary. But he shrugged it off and said, “I’ll go right now.” I thanked him and said I would call my friend on my cell, my friend who had given me the rock. I handed the rock to him and out he went. When I had her on the phone (she lives on the east coast) I looked up and there he was, holding the rock up. He threw it in the water while I described what was happening. He paddled in immediately and I handed the phone to him as he walked up the beach. He and my friend spoke for just a moment or two. He just walked away toward a buddy. I walked away too, as my east coast friend and I talked about what had happened. “Can you hear the ocean?” I said, and held out the phone. Of course, she did (good cell phone). These two surfers were wonderful men. They did something for me and just walked away.

Thanx, Jan.

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